I Like Monks, Not Hermits

I've been fascinated with monks for a long time, probably due to the fact that in my mind, monks live in a library and sing all day. So, I was pretty excited when I got the opportunity to visit a monastery here. Rila Monastery is one of the most famous sites in BG and I've been wanting to go see it for a long time. Thanks to some sweet friends with a car, I got to do just that last weekend!

After about two hours in the car, we made it to the monastery around noon. Once we were ready to head in, I made everyone stop for a group picture.

The monastery is absolutely wonderful. It's full of color, frescoes, candles, and surrounded by mountains and blue sky.

 

The front of the main chapel 

 

Artwork right above the front doors

 

Windows on the outside of the church

The day was perfect as far as weather went, so we decided to go see the cave where St. John of Rila lived when he moved to the area and became BG's first hermit. Our guide book described it as a 20 minute leisurely walk for the moderately fit. 

We bought snacks:

 

(Possibly the best bread I've ever had. And that's saying a lot)

and started our walk! We followed some sketchy signs on a light pole pointing up a cattle path into the woods. 

 

Keith and Bethany excited to start our leisurely walk. 

After trying to hike up a creek bed, getting separated, and forging our own path, we realized we were lost. Thankfully, after about 10 minutes, we found the path again and started walking with purpose.

 

And then we kept walking. With less purpose and more ill feelings towards men who feel the need to make their historical homes at the tops of mountains. 

We spent around 2 hours hiking through fields and forest, uphill nearly the whole way. By the time we started pulling out Lord of the Rings comparisons, I determined we were not on a leisurely walk.

 

 We did see some lovely sights, though, like these amazing trees.

After walking and walking, we finally made it to the cave. I plopped myself right down on a bench to breathe, and noticed that everyone else at this cave had hiked up another way and didn't seem as winded as I was. I pondered this while I guarded the luggage of a national family who trusted me to watch it. After they came back, I went into the cave with Bethany.

In the cave, there's a fissure that leads up to the top of the hill. According to our guide book (which had already lied to us about the hike, so I don't know if I trust it anymore), pilgrims heading toward the monastery had to first past through the fissure. If they couldn't, it meant they weren't holy enough and would have to go back for a year of pennance before trying again. 

So, of course, we had to climb through it to test our holiness.

I made it! The fissure looks pretty do-able from this angle, but it was a tight squeeze at the bottom, made more complicated by some slippery rocks.

After we'd all determined we were holy, we decided to head back to the car, following the path that everyone else seemed to take. Lo and behold, the opposite side of the path was about a 15 min walk to a parking lot.

Of course, our car wasn't there so we had to walk along the road back to the monastery. Roughly two hours later, we made it back, even though I wasn't sure we were ever going to see civilization again.

Despite all of the walking and my anger towards hermits who live two hours away from any people, it was a great trip! I'm so thankful I get to see amazing places like this.